How to Properly Measure Your Head for a Custom-Made Hat

A professional milliner’s guide to accurate head measurements provided by Angela Marie Vinson. 

When measuring a client for a custom hat, the goal is to capture the actual circumference of the head where the hat will sit, not simply the widest part of the head. A precise measurement helps a milliner create a comfortable, secure fit without the hat pinching, slipping, or sitting too high.

Step 1: Gather your tools

• A flexible, non-stretch measuring tape, preferably a tailor’s tape.

• A mirror or a second person to help.

• Paper and a pen to record the measurement.

• Optional: a piece of string if you don't have a measuring tape (measure the string against a ruler afterward).

Important: Use a flexible tape that does not stretch. Even a small measurement error can affect the fit of a bespoke hat.

Step 2: Position the measuring tape correctly

1. • Place the tape around the head approximately ½ inch (1–1.5 cm) above the eyebrows.

   • Bring it just above the ears, rather than pulling it down over them.

   • Continue around the widest part of the back of the head, where the skull curves outward.

2. Bring the tape back to the starting point, forming a complete circle.

3. Check in a mirror to make sure the tape is level all the way around, following the natural line where the hat is intended to sit.

The tape should follow the client's preferred hat-wearing position. Some styles, such as certain fascinators or fashion hats, may sit differently, so confirm the intended fit before measuring.

Step 3: Check the tension

This is one of the most important parts of professional hat fitting.

• Keep the tape snug but not tight.

• Do not compress the skin or pull the tape so tightly that it leaves an indentation.

• Do not leave gaps between the tape and the head.

• Keep hair as it will normally be worn beneath the hat, particularly if the client wears a bun, braids, or voluminous styling.

For a standard fitted hat, measure against the head rather than adding extra room yourself. The milliner determines the appropriate ease based on the hat style, materials, sweatband, and intended fit.

Step 4: Take the measurement more than once

Take the circumference measurement at least two or three times.

If you get slightly different results, reposition the tape and repeat until the readings are consistent.

Record the measurement in centimeters and inches, if possible, and note if you like it snug, loose or fit. 

Step 5: Use the measurement to determine the hat size

Here is a general adult hat-sizing reference.

1. Halo-style hat: worn high on the head

When wearing a hat in a halo style or toward the back of the head, the measurement changes because the hat sits on a different part of the head than a traditional, level-fitting hat. As a milliner, you want to measure the actual placement line where the hat will rest, rather than automatically using the standard circumference measurement.

2. For a halo-style hat that sits higher on the crown:

1. Place the measuring tape around the head at the exact height where the inner band or supporting structure will sit.

2. Typically, this is higher than the standard hat line, above the ears and around the upper crown, depending on the design.

3. Keep the tape level around the entire head at that placement.

4. Measure snugly without compressing the skin or hair.

5. Record the circumference and the exact placement of the tape.

   

   
   

   Fascinators or "Cocktail" Hats

   Sizing & How to Wear

   This fascinator/cocktail hat is designed to be secured with millinery elastic for a comfortable, secure fit. Depending on the style, the hat may be worn tilted to the side, perched toward the back of the head, or positioned according to your desired look.

   How to measure for sizing: Use a flexible measuring tape to measure the circumference of your head along the area where you intend to wear the hat. For a traditional fit, measure approximately ½ inch above your eyebrows, just above your ears, and around the fullest part of the back of your head. For a hat designed to sit higher on the crown or farther back, also measure the intended placement area.

   Elastic fit: Millinery elastic is designed to help secure the hat in place and is worn around the head, typically concealed beneath the hair. The elastic should fit comfortably without excessive tension. Hairstyles, head shape, and the intended position of the hat can affect the fit.

   For the best fit, please provide your head circumference in inches or centimeters when ordering, along with any preferred wearing position. Please contact us with sizing questions before purchasing if you are unsure which measurement to provide.

   Alternative Attachment Option: If you prefer not to wear millinery elastic, hat clips or comb attachments can be inserted or fitted as an alternative, depending on the hat's construction. These can be used to secure the hat directly to your hair, making them a great option for updos, styled hair, or a more discreet finish.

   FOR ALL HATS: For the best fit, please provide your head circumference in inches or centimeters when ordering, along with your preferred wearing position and attachment method. Please contact us with any sizing questions before purchasing if you are unsure which measurement to provide.